THE HANDBAG:
A LEAD ROLE IN NEXT WINTER’S WOMAN’S LOOK OR JUST A DISPENSABLE ACCESSORY?
The bag, as a complementary accessory to the woman’s look, has been the focal point of much controversy and discussion over the course of the recent international fashion weeks. Designers and world-famous fashion houses split into two distinct groups: the abolishers of the handbag as an essential luxury accessory and the upholders of this gorgeous item, as the best expression of femininity and refinement.
Looking at the four most important fashion shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris, we can see that these two opposite points of view have not just influenced individual collections but have determined the overall trends and fashion proposals characterizing the fashion weeks themselves. While both in New York and London, most of the fashion creations were deprived of the handbag, looking at the proposals presented at Milan fashion week or Paris fashion week, it’s easy to see that both Italian and French designers agree with the return of the handbag as a luxury accessory, devoted not only to serving and fulfilling the woman’s desires as a faithful companion, but to enhancing the woman’s look, giving her luminosity and extreme elegance.
But, why do American and British fashion houses have such a different opinion to their Italian and French colleagues in the matter of handbags?
The main reason is closely connected to a different vision and the consequent reaction to the economic crisis. While American and British designers try to confront the recession by proposing more restrained styles and very simple creations that are accessible in price, eliminating anything that is considered superfluous and dispensable such as a gorgeous decorated bag (which is replaced by large pockets, usually sewn onto the coat or trousers, to keep everything a woman needs through the day), French and Italian fashion houses don’t intend giving up their gorgeous luxury creations because of the crisis, but more than ever, during this period of uncertainty and insecurity, they want to send out an important message: fashion is strong; it can’t be brought down by the recession but, on the contrary, especially now, it needs to make its presence felt, assuring the buyer of a product which is carefully made in every detail, a pure expression of art and craftsmanship.
This is the reason why many Italian designers, like Francesco Scognamiglio use gold both on their dresses and their handbags, either genuine 18ct gold or gold colored brass. The key words of both the Italian and the French fashion weeks are: brightness, elegance and prestige both in dresses and in accessories. Yes, because accessories too, and in particular the handbag, reign supreme once more in completing the refined woman’s image. The bag is once again part of the woman’s look, rediscovered as an expression of her femininity, the perfect receptacle for all her secrets and the faithful companion for all her adventures. Big or small, it is always well-finished in every particular and enriched by decorations or shining rhinestones, which help enhance the woman’s natural beauty and sensuality even more.
But, which styles of handbags will be more fashionable next winter, according to what was presented at these four fashion weeks?
New York designers, as already explained above, are not proponents of the handbag this season and most American fashion collections don’t include this accessory. However there are also some fashion houses which send some models down the runway wearing wide tote bags for everyday wear and refined but simple clutches for the evening look. Mulberry, showing both in New York and London, presents a rich selection of hobos in luxury leathers and ostrich skin. Alexander Wang proposes a studded black leather duffel that is already cited as this year’s ‘It’ bag. Isaac Mizrahi presented his collection at the New York fashion week proposing hats in the shape of a handbag, as if to say: Women always have handbags on the brain!!!!
British fashion designers are also not in favor of promoting the handbag as a complementary accessory for the fashionable woman’s look of next autumn-winter 2009/2010. They seem to prefer coats and trousers with large comfortable pockets where the woman can keep all her things in absolute ease without needing to wear the classic bag. Some British designers however, introduce colored handbags to their collections in reaction to the greyness of winter and to the darkness of the crisis. House of Holland proposes wide shoulder bags held by the strap, perfectly matching the color gradation theme of the dress both for men and women. The evening wear, on the other hand dictates the use of patent-leather clutches. Mulberry also proposes wide leather tote bags but with a classic shape and without decorations or pendants. Luella, as well as wide suitcase-style handbags, introduces small bags made of fur, a chic accessory for an innovative look. Gold is the predominant color for Luella’s clutches accompanying the evening wear.
Milan fashion houses, in contrast, accessorize almost all their creations with the most appropriate stylish bag. For day wear, they agree on the classic tote bag, comfortable and absolutely practical to use, thanks to its many internal and external pockets, where the woman can keep everything organized that she needs to have by her side through the day. Tote bags can be made of luxury leather (some designers propose the use of genuine crocodile leather) or of high quality fabric, but they all must be excellently handcrafted and well-finished in every tiny detail. With or without decorations or gorgeous pendants, they are held by the handles and must be not only practical but also elegant and chic. The most innovative proposal without doubt comes from Fendi, with their luxury leather bags held by the handle or worn on the shoulder in a particular way so that they fall open on one side. This original idea could appear very attractive so your handbag can be admired in all its beauty and refinement by everyone around you but, on the down side, it could also be dangerous because your wallet, cell phone and keys could easily be stolen without you even noticing!
The evening look instead, celebrates the eternal clutch, enriched by the classic leather strap or by a short strap made of fine gold brass chains decorated with pearls and shining rhinestones, as a sort of precious jewel. Most of them are made of genuine leather or of shiny satin creating a gorgeous luxury effect. Clutches, with or without a strap, are rigorously clasped in the hand, because, according to Italian designers a woman wearing a sensual evening dress and clasping her clutch in her hand is the height of elegance and prestige.
Many innovative ideas in the matter of handbags come to us from France, even if here too the “in bags” proposed for next autumn-winter 2009/2010 are the tote bag for day wear and the classic leather clutch for a gorgeous evening look, always clasped in hand, like a small purse. Kenzo, for the daytime style, introduces very large shoulder bags to wear across the body in order to give the woman absolute comfort and dynamicity. Chanel, besides the classic clutch, proposes a special clutch style for the day. It is a sort of rigid structure made of transparent plastic, with many different compartments to keep your cellphone, lipstick, keys and your personal effects. This plastic outer bag is then enriched with a sort of leather clutch, attached inside this structure which acts as a real bag to keep your wallet in and anything else that you want to keep discretely tucked away. It is a particularly original idea, not really truly elegant, but certainly practical and comfortable. Then it can be perfectly matched to the dress’s color. Christian Lacroix accompanies his creations with rigid colored caskets made of leather or fabric to hold by the small handles while Hermes fashion house will remain faithful to its Birkin model next winter too, which has become their signature bag.
So, according to the styles proposed by all these world-famous designers, which is the bag that suits your look best? Which handbag will be your “it” bag next winter? Leave your feedback here!!!!
