Milano Moda Uomo: the latest news for Spring/Summer 2012
Perfumed labels, high tech and ultra-eco fabrics, jackets that don’t crush and only take up the same amount of space as an iPad in your suitcase. How fascinating and attractive the men’s fashion universe can be!
Always aiming to combine comfort and elegance, there were a number of new ideas and proposals designed to renew our men’s wardrobes, during those 5 intense days full of fashion shows and parades that animated the centre of Milan, from June the 18th to the 22nd, turning the city into a true fashion capital, and capturing the attention of a great crowd of visitors, journalists and buyers from all over the world.
Updating the man’s wardrobe isn’t as easy as all that, and it’s something our Italian designers well know, tackling the task twice a year, always looking for the fine balance between beautiful but sometimes dull tradition and all out experimentation.
So, while Gucci clothes her models in tweed, Iceberg wants a decadent-chic image for him, Richmond goes for laser leather, while Prada puts their money on irony…and king Giorgio?
The most famous and renowned Italian designer in the world, shook the entire fashion universe by decrying the way that the entire fashion business is no longer governed by the labels themselves, but is at the mercy of the banks, who have too much influence over business and the media, and, in the end, manage the entire process, nullifying the hard work that goes into every single fashion show or collection.
But, how will men look to their fiancées’ eyes next Spring/Summer 2012?
A great number of unlined jackets, feather-light, slim in design and following the lines of the man’s body gently without being at all constricting; lots of shirts, especially in shades of white, immediately counterbalanced by the color used on T-shirts and trousers, gilets and sunglasses, shoes and even hats.
But, beside the relaxed man who is comfortable playing with colors and prints, there’s always the more traditional and classic man, who chooses formal suits, perhaps being daring enough to try an unusual stripe.
Spokesperson of a bold, tailored style, with its roots in the history of elegance and an eye on the future, Ennio Capasa from Costume National defines the new masculine style as the uniting of our traditional tailoring skills with technology: the best piece that comes from this new tailored, hi-tech style is a reversible jacket that on one side is a nylon bomber jacket, and on the other becomes an elegant blazer.
The Stefano Dolce and Domenico Gabbana duo is always ready to invest in new presentation and communication methods, especially involving the Internet: in fact, for this event, they created an entire collection all focused on the theme of nets: a net that is cast to seduce or to stay connected with the world, that lies between the social networks and the traditional Sicilian fishermen, but that conveys the idea of freedom perfectly. Proposed in every fabric, color, dimension and material, this net, sheer or doubled with cotton, creates an intriguing game, both on shorts and jumpers, and doesn’t clash with the classic tailoring of the house of fashion, re-proposing a jacket without lapels, short and tight, over low-waisted trousers for next Spring/Summer.
A cheeky and curious man is pictured by Roberto Cavalli – now more and more ready to pass the reins of his company onto his son, Davide – with an entire collection that together shows the high tailoring ability and the power of leather, of colored blazers and blousons in suede, python and nappa leather; silk or cotton shirts embellished with precious embroidery and detailing, worn under slightly slim jackets. But the path towards innovation also includes color: a tangible proof is the cobalt colored suit enlivened by an embroidered silk belt.
Corneliani’s man comes from the desert and he shows up in perfect safari jackets and Bedouin headwear, for a collection that highlights valuable materials, such as ostrich and coffee-colored crocodile, making them current and contemporary.
Along Gucci’s catwalk parades a gentleman sportsman who loves riding and wears trench coats and tight jodhpurs even for elegant occasions. For the evening, he trades in the tuxedo for shiny jackets in Prince of Wales fabric or black and white tweed, matched with bow tie and patent leather shoes.
John Richmond, impressed public and press with a very beautiful and complete collection, inspired by Bob Marley’s Jamaica and Imperial Japanese prints: amazing hand-painted shirts, chic and clean pinstripes, softly studded shoes and jackets in laser leather.
Fashion King Giorgio Armani had the honor of closing the Milano Moda Uomo event, the man who invented the contemporary style of dress code, giving customers around the world the joy of an elegant freedom that is never dull and always respectful of the rules of fine dressing, because, according to the designer, you can renew your image while remaining faithful to your own philosophy and ideals.
The outstanding piece for summer 2012 is the suit for him, in fresh and innovative fabrics, polished or broken occasionally by patterned micro and macro geometric motifs that infuse it with the concept of the speed of modern life. A collection entirely focused on the concept of lightness, from the jackets, as weightless as fine shirts, to the elongated shorts creating the new line of pants. Not only a lightness in line, but also in color, with neutral iced nuances taking center stage; a lightness of patterns, with printed marble-like clouds; of style, with the wrinkled effect, for a more comfortable look without extravagance, where the jacket is worn informally, maybe with a tie draping from the pocket or used as a scarf, and paired with ankle-length trousers, always remaining serious and never banal.
The only amusing touch is the slip-on shoes, made of canvas or velvet even under a double-breast jacket. Beautiful the soft knitwear, in shades of black and white.
So, are you satisfied with the last trends offered by the Italian fashion universe for men, in this brief summary of looks that we’ve collected for you? We’re all now eagerly awaiting for the news of the women’s collections, to start updating our wardrobes. Meanwhile….don’t miss our next article!!
