Made in Italy continues to attract applause and defeat the economic crisis: the latest news from Milano Moda Donna.
We couldn’t have expected a more refined and exuberant start to this year’s edition of the stunning and exhilarating Milan fashion week. It’s an event that never disappoints expectations, leaving buyers and press positively speechless at the elegance of Italian taste, as displayed in the new women’s trends for next Spring/Summer 2012.
The beginning was all that is feminine, not only for the hundreds of models backstage and on the catwalks, but also for the brands and big names that opened the show, a show completely focused on the worship of the new and beautiful: a strong platoon of women who can design, create and wear jaw-dropping clothes.
Well aware of women’s strength is Frida Giannini, artistic director at Gucci, who won over the public with her 1920s- inspired collection – the Golden age of Art Deco – those specific years of the maison’s foundation in 1921, and by the allure of a resolute and feminine modernity: lots of fringes, foulard-dresses and rich decorations, for a fascinating and very Italian revival of the Jazz era.
Public and press were amazed by the many evening dresses presented with architectural embroideries, resembling New York skyscrapers, the typical Charleston fringes, and naked backs: most of the collection is an enchantment of black, white and gold, only broken by a few pieces in green and mandarin.
On the tailoring side, jackets are short, with fairly androgynous lines, and are teamed with high-waisted pants with front pleats or deep tuxedo stripes down the sides.
The pieces that resonated most were those highlighting Gucci’s mastery in leather processing, like the black and gold leather dress, laser-cut so minutely that it resembled fringes of eyelashes, or the fitted T-shirt stitched together from strips of python to look like zebra stripes, or the equestrian prints on trousers and the hem of drop-waisted skirts.
Alberta Ferretti left the traffic and chaos of the city life behind to steal inspiration from the jungle and the power of Nature, with decorations, embroideries and a special technique called intaglio. Dresses are the real stars, as usual, for a collection designed for a metropolitan woman who never forgets to dream. Chiffon is mounted on tulle to create dresses with fluid volumes,light as a tattoo, leaving the back uncovered, as it is now designated the new point of seduction. Tribal motifs and a wide palette of colors are applied to dresses composed of countless tiny beads painstakingly applied by hand, so elevating artisan skills over machinery.
And, while lightness is the secret code for Francesco Scogliamiglio, who uses triumphant, golden baroque motifs on heels, belts and jewelry, golden net is the main theme of the highly convincing collection from Angelo Marani, who deals with knitwear as nobody else can. Numerous ultra-feminine pullovers present a net effect, ready to wear over little dresses, or biker jackets made of genuine python leather, and floral silk jackets. Colorful prints and designs reminiscent of the deep ocean bed characterize Roccobarocco dresses, with fish scales proposed in black and white animal prints and applied to little dresses, chemises in chiffon, satin trousers and beach robes, for a very practical and dynamic woman.
Bold and audacious is the John Richmond fashion show: his dresses have wide sleeves, seductively sheer, high belts to emphasize the feminine silhouette, safari jackets in laser-cut python leather and suits enriched by crystals. Vivid colors, such as passion red, for dresses and accessories, without forgetting the elegance of black and white and a few pieces in pastel shades.
No wardrobe is complete without a cashmere outfit, as suggested by Brunello Cucinelli, who proposes it in every nuance of white, in all its shades, and weaves it with silver threads, in an exultation of refined and 100% Made in Italy creations.
MaxMara’s women are athletic and sporting, and prefer the practicality of everyday outfits: minimalist jackets, sleek tunics to wear over knee-length leggings, and the new blouson-suit; for the evening, an old-gold Lurex jumpsuit and ¾ length sleeves for waistcoats. Among the wide selection of neutral tonalities mint green is the designer’s favorite color.
Research in the clothes field demands creativity and wearability, as Miuccia Prada said, who never gives up on experimentation and innovation, but has the insight to understand what the market wants. The message is all about feminine and dynamic dresses without the aggressive attitude of seduction at all costs, in a collection imbued with sweetness and the innocence of a bygone age: a concert of pastel nuances, Californian fifties car designs, floral and embroidered lace on skirts worn with bandeau tops and shoes with decorative heels.
To feel free as the butterfly Blugirl chooses floral prints on multiple variations, fun straw hats and narrow colorful belts at the waist, where powder tonalities mingle with yellow and strawberry pink, even on evening chemises and bon ton dresses.
The mermaid takes the place of the jellyfish but also of seahorses, shells and starfish enlivening the clothes that were paraded during the Donatella Versace show, where neoprene meets pleats in the same dress; the numerous shorts, together with delicate printed little dresses – where white stands out – show off decorations and golden studs, like the outfit Donatella Versace modeled herself on the catwalk when taking the final bow before the enchanted audience.
It will be a totally white and black summer 2012 for all those who decide to wear the Giorgio Armani collection; an index of sobriety and positivity that King Giorgio creates with soft and supple dresses and suits, with an air of contemporary art. It was a tribute to young elegant femininity with a neo-classic collection; models show straw hats with a dark frontal bow, oblique cut skirts, while tops and dresses undulate at the hem with an interesting hoop like a hula-hoop. The high-waisted pants become feminine with a deep slit at the ankle, while the masculine jacket, without any buttons or collar, becomes a sort of shirt, or else it is piped on the revers and pockets, useful for a modern and well-educated woman. For the evening, short dresses are lit up by a waterfall of crystals and sequin gilets.
And while recognition continues to be an important card for the Made in Italy label, Roberto Cavalli insists on strong pieces and reinvents them: the effect is that of a strong and determined woman, who wears a masculine jacket over highly embroidered and feminine dresses,. A group of girls in gold sequins opens the show, where the models, wearing shorts, drop-waisted skirts and diadems looked like nothing less than messengers from the gods. The gold gives way to black, sequins outlining pleats that open to reveal floral prints. Roberto Cavalli’s collection is a hymn to Made in Italy: the designer has embodied the highest craftsmanship for more than 40 years, with cutting-edge processing for animal prints, sumptuous flowers, precious embroidery and leather, wisely inlaid with crocodile and python. And still in the realm of exotic leather, the designer, as an act of love, dedicated his new bag “Florence” in black or nude crocodile to his own city.
There was lots of fun at the Dolce&Gabbana fashion show, in a party atmosphere with lights typical of any Southern Italian piazza. On the catwalk, the most alluring clothes are printed with all kinds of vegetables, from eggplant to zucchini, tomatoes and hot peppers while models wear garlic cloves as earrings. The wide skirts ripple, the bra-top enchants, the romper suit intrigues, while lace is light blue on a dress that combines macramé and hot pepper prints, and pink on the cape. For the first time this collection lacks the classic pants while, for the ending, models parade wearing only a bodysuit, each different from one another, real jewels enriched by stones and pearls, shining like fireworks.
These are just some of the many proposals that our highly appreciated Italian designers presented for the next Spring/Summer 2012.
Are you ready to reinvent your wardrobe?
